Here's a great
article from Popular Mechanics. I can't say that I have all of these, but my collection is growing.
1. Sledgehammer
* Few tools combine brute force and finesse as elegantly as a sledgehammer. Swing it overhead to deliver bomb-blast destructiveness or to fire a wood-splitting wedge through a big log. Handle it like a putter to salvage architectural elements such as a post-and-beam barn frame that needs knocking apart. Most of us are better off with an 8- or 10-pound model that we can swing easily, not a 16- to 20-pounder.
2. Center Punch
* In theory, you use a center punch to start holes in metal. In practice, it's far more useful than that. You can tighten a loose handle on a knife or shovel by centering the punch on the rivet and then firmly striking it with a ball-peen hammer, expanding the rivet's head. In a pinch, you can also use a center punch like a steel pencil to mark a line on wood or metal. Or you can use it to countersink a large nailhead or drive down the stub of a broken nail or staple.
3. Putty Knife
* The putty knife is more than a single implement. Rather, it's a group of tools, ranging from knives with flexible, thin blades to heavy-duty models that are ground with a tip like a chisel (which, not surprisingly, are called chisel-edge putty knives). Better tools have a high-carbon steel blade; plastic, disposable ones are perfect for the no-scuff application of putty on painted surfaces.
4. Safety Glasses
* DIY projects may come and go, but you won't get a second shot at good vision--protecting your eyes should be your first priority. Opt for high-impact safety glasses over those rated "basic impact." For maximum protection, wear high-impact goggles because they cover more of your face and the area around your eyes.
5. Adjustable Wrench
* For portability and convenience, you can't beat the time-honored adjustable wrench, which enables you to turn a wide range of nuts and bolts with a single tool. If you're going to own just one, make it a 10- or 14-inch model so that it's big enough for residential plumbing fittings. Pull it so the reaction force is applied to the fixed jaw, not the movable one.
6. Pipe Wrench
* A pipe wrench may not be versatile, but when you need to hold a pipe and fittings, nothing else will work. The body is rigid and heavy, and the teeth bite forcefully into smooth, round surfaces. While most pipe wrenches are cast iron, spring for an aluminum model if you face a long day of plumbing.
7. Socket Wrench Set
* Reach for a socket wrench when you need to tighten fasteners or loosen frozen ones. The 1/2-inch drive is the heavy hitter of the socket wrench kingdom, followed by a switch hitter, the 3/8-inch drive, which is big enough to do light-duty automotive work yet small enough for some appliances. Reserve the 1/4-inch drive for appliance and electronics repair.
8. Metal File
* If the deadly twin-engine Heinkel 219 had been available in larger numbers, some World War II historians speculate, Germany might have stopped the Royal Air Force bombing that hastened the end of the war. As it was, fewer than 300 of the gun-bristling night fighters were made. Today, one remains, and the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum's Will Lee is slowly piecing it back together. Along with a rawhide mallet for hammering aluminum, the aircraft restorer's go-to tool is a metal file. He relies on four dozen files to finesse excess metal--both single- and double-cut, triangular and those he's cut down to shave rivets. "With a file, I can get right down to the lines I've scribed," says Lee, who did electrical work and built prosthetic limbs before joining the Smithsonian in 1990. He prefers hand tools for the most precise fits. "I seem to have more control doing it the way I've been doing it for years," he says.
9. Combination Square
* Used for marking out, measuring and testing the squareness of corners, the combination square is versatile and accurate. For maximum precision, first position your pencil (or the scratch awl stored in the head), then gently slide the square to the pencil (or awl) and strike your line. Check the tool's accuracy by marking a line 90 degrees to a straightedge. Flip the square and make another mark next to the first. If the two lines are parallel, the square is, well, square.
10. Combination Wrench
* Your wife has the family silver tucked away in a felt-lined box, and you've got your set of combination wrenches. The tool's design is prototypically simple--box-end on one side, open on the other. It has no moving parts and is covered in shiny chrome. If you're lucky enough to have inherited the set from your dad, that makes it as precious as the silver, while cheaper to insure. No one knows who invented the combination wrench or when, but it was popularized in the U.S. by Plomb Tools in the 1930s, a period of social and technological ferment. As automobiles became more numerous and sophisticated, so did the tools to work on them. New steel alloys and forging methods have only improved the wrench with the passage of time. Today's wrench is thinner, sleeker and stronger than the bulky ones it replaced; it weighs half what it did in the '20s. While it is hard to improve on perfection, in 2006 Craftsman introduced a new twist--literally--in its Cross-Force Combination Wrenches, turning the handle so your palm presses on the tool's broad face, not the narrow edge. Back when blacksmiths forged tools, they would inscribe the year onto the head as if to announce that it would last decades, maybe centuries, into an uncertain future. A fine set of wrenches, bearing dates or not, exudes the same sense of permanence.
11. Bow Saw
* The bow saw is a simple recipe for wood-cutting success: a ribbon-thin steel blade with sturdy teeth tensioned in a steel frame. And it's safer than a chain saw for removing tree limbs while standing on a ladder.
12. Jigsaw
* Because a jigsaw cuts with an up-and-down motion and its blade is comparatively narrow, it excels at cutting curves in wood, metal and plastic. Advanced models have an orbital setting that also moves the blade in a swinging motion for aggressive woodcutting.
13. Coping Saw
* A hand tool with a thin blade stretched in a C-shaped frame, the coping saw is also adept at intricate cuts: It is named for the technique of coping, or cutting, joints where two pieces of molding meet. As with any saw, choose a blade with more teeth for a finer cut, and one with fewer teeth for faster, somewhat rougher cutting. A blade with 15 teeth per inch, or tpi, should do the trick for general use.
14. Side-Cutting Pliers
* Call them side cutters, linesman pliers or electrician's pliers. By any name, the heavy jaws and shears make them indispensable for cutting electrical cable and for pulling the steel tape used to fish wires through wall and ceiling cavities. Models rated as "high leverage" can cut nails and bolts, while those equipped with a die near the jaws can press together the crimp connectors used on grounding wires.
15. Hacksaw
* The fine-tooth blade of a hacksaw can cut through iron and steel, as well as through tough materials like hard plastics and cable. With a blade known as a carbide-grit rod saw, it can even slice ceramic tile. For metal, use a carbon-steel blade with 14, 18, 24 or 32 tpi. Opt for a bimetal blade for high-tension pro models, which exert tremendous tensile force in order to hold the blade arrow straight in tough cuts. The bimetal blade's carbon-steel back, bonded to a high-speed-steel front, can take the tension.
16. Crosscut Saw
* Even if you own an arsenal of power saws, an eight-point crosscut saw should be somewhere in your shop. It may not make the finest cut, but it's the perfect jack-of-all-trades saw for small jobs, like the occasional 2 x 4. Hold the saw so that its toothed edge is 45 degrees to the work surface, and start the cut by drawing the saw back very lightly. Use full strokes, engaging as much of the toothed surface as possible.
17. Snips
* You don't have to be a metalworker to appreciate snips. This tool cuts sheet steel, copper and aluminum, but also rubber, heavy cardboard and plastic. Pro models have color-coded handles to indicate whether they are designed for left curves, right curves or straight cuts (red, green and yellow, respectively). Homeowners can get by with a single, all-purpose utility snip.
18. Roundnose Shovel
* The roundnose shovel digs, cuts and pries, but, like any tool, its efficiency depends on you. Start with the shovel perpendicular to the soil, and use your weight and leg muscles, not your arms, to drive it down. To toss dirt, hold the shovel close and keep your forward hand on the blade socket. Bend both knees. If you're right-handed, point your left foot in the direction of the toss.
19. Needle-Nose Pliers
* When you need to fish a dropped screw out of a tight space, when working on electronics for example, there's nothing handier than a pair of needle-nose pliers. Their elegant shape is also perfect for fastening a wire to a switch or outlet receptacle: Grip the wire at the tip of the jaws and roll the pliers to produce a neat hook, then fasten the hook under the terminal screw.
20. Drill
* Cordless drills readily combine speed, power and portability--so for most of us, they've already replaced the corded variety. They also come with a clutch that disconnects the drive mechanism when it reaches a dialed-in force setting, preventing the user from stripping the screw. While 14- to 18-volt models can handle most jobs, some drills have voltages in the mid-20s or even 30s for power that rivals that of the corded product.
21. Drill Bits
* For almost all general hole drilling, most of us can get by with a set of 15 or 18 high-speed-steel twist drill bits. You don't need to upgrade to a full set to deal with special circumstances, such as knocking a hole through a brick wall or boring through nail-infested lumber. Buy these expensive, single-purpose bits one at a time. As the years pass, the specialty bits add up, allowing you to tackle any job that comes along without a trip to the hardware store.
22. Locking Pliers
* An early multitool, locking pliers--patented in 1924--are sometimes known by the brand name Vise-Grip. They function like ordinary pliers but also as a wrench or welding clamp. Their powerful grip works well to remove stubborn nails or fence staples.
23. Level
* A 9-inch torpedo level is perfect for small jobs like hanging pictures, but you need a 2-foot or longer carpenter's model for bigger projects, such as leveling appliances and bookshelves or plumbing posts to support a fence or mailbox. Another bonus: Long levels make a nice straightedge.
24. Circular Saw
* Nothing beats a circular saw for speed and convenience when it comes to making straight cuts on a variety of materials. It can crosscut lumber or rip plywood, of course. But with a nail-cutting blade, a circular saw can also do demolition work; with an abrasive blade, it can saw through masonry and metal.
25. Spray Lube
* There are a lot of good spray lubricants, such as Liquid Wrench and Jig-A-Loo, but the most iconic is WD-40. The name stands for Water Displacement 40th attempt, since it took inventor Norm Larsen, founder of the Rocket Chemical Company in San Diego, 40 tries to find a formula to stop metal corrosion by displacing the water that causes it. WD-40 removes adhesive, cleans bike parts, stops squeaks and loosens rusted bolts. And it has a few more unusual applications: Police once used it to remove a naked burglar stuck in an a/c vent.
26. Tape Rule
* A measuring tape is a spring-loaded marvel, combining compactness and speed. Poke its tip down to the intersection of floor and wall, then bend it up the wall to measure ceiling height. Extend it horizontally and it's stiff enough to bridge several feet of open air. A 25-foot model is sufficiently long to handle most home construction jobs, yet small and light enough to stash in a nail pouch or clip to your blue jeans.
27. Hammer
* In 30,000 B.C., someone altered the destiny of the human race by lashing a stick to a rock, a refinement that increased the user's strike speed and accuracy. The hammer was born. Later, stone begat bronze, begat iron, begat steel--a material that could be forged into a ruthlessly efficient shape. Yet, after all these millennia, the wood handle remains, preferred by craftsmen for its light weight, shock absorbency and balance. It was the post-World War II housing boom that finally transformed the profile of the modern hammer. Can't-frame-'em-fast-enough carpenters on the West Coast needed still more speed, so they grafted elements of heavy-rigging hatchets onto claw hammers. The result is the beefy, all-business, California-style framer, a swift, long-handled striking tool with a vicious claw. A nail gun might be fast, but nothing beats the feeling of sinking a nail in two or three clean hits.
28. Dust Mask
* For the past quarter-century, Eddie Hibbert has patiently restored old mantels, doors and other brownstone artifacts, becoming a living legend in the New York City salvage community. Despite the friendly, informal atmosphere around his Brooklyn shop, the work is made hazardous by wood chips, flying debris and lung-choking dust--some of which emanates from pieces that predate the 1978 U.S. ban on lead-based paint. "That stuff will kill you," Hibbert says. That's why his crucial tool isn't a scraper or a sander--it's a respirator. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health recommends a disposable or cartridge-type half mask (not pictured) with a P100 rating to remove lead dust. For Hibbert, buying the best respirator he can find is money well-spent. Breathing new life into old architectural pieces is Hibbert's job--but, he says, protecting his lungs is more important.
29. Nail Set
* A nail set allows you to countersink nailheads without damaging the surrounding surface, then conceal the holes with wood filler. While you can use a set that's one size larger than you need, don't try to use an undersize one--this can damage the tool's cup-shaped tip. To ensure you've got the right size, get a set of four: 1/32-, 1/16-, 3/32- and 1/8-inch.
30. Machinist Vise
* Whether stationary or swiveling, a vise is like an extra set of (really strong) hands for securing your work. Cast-iron models function well for most applications, but buy a forged-steel vise for anything heavy-duty. If you cut a lot of pipe, choose a vise with V-shaped jaws to grip round material. For moderate metal pounding, choose one with an anvil behind the jaws. While it's no substitute for a blacksmith anvil, it is handy for small projects.
31. Wood Chisel
* "My favorite tool is a big, flat 10-inch chisel with a boxwood handle," woodworker Keith Fritz of Jasper, Ind., says. "It's English, made in the 19th century and has a good weight to it. That's the tool in my hand the most." Fritz grew up in the no-stoplight community of Siberia, Ind., where both his father and grandfather farmed land and worked wood. As a high school student, he won back-to-back annual statewide competitions, one of them for an intricate Chippendale-style secretary with slots, drawers and secret compartments. Planning to study theology, he moved to Washington, D.C., and attended Catholic University but heard the call of furniture-making instead. Bill and Hillary Clinton own one of his dining tables, which sell for up to $30,000. A few years ago, Fritz moved his shop from the seminary's basement to Jasper. There, he builds furniture inspired by old designs using mostly hand tools--and never a scrap of sandpaper. "You can tell an antique is real by looking at the tool marks," he says. "Pre-1880, there was no sanding involved. I can get the same effect with a really sharp chisel."
32. Chalk Line
* As technology goes, the chalk line is incredibly simple--a cranked spool of string that runs through a reservoir of powdered chalk. But for marking a straight line when ripping long boards, or for laying out wall plates while house framing, nothing fancy works better.
33. Allen Wrench
* Also known as hex keys, Allen wrenches are not wrenches in the conventional sense but are more like screwdrivers, as they fit inside the fastener head rather than surrounding it. They're handy for knock-down furniture and setscrews on faucet bodies.
34. Earmuffs
* Hearing damage is permanent, but it's also preventable. Earmuffs, as opposed to earplugs or headphones, provide maximum protection. Really loud shop tools, such as chain saws and circular saws, may operate above 100 decibels--and noise higher than 85 decibels begins to cause damage. Choose a product that has a high noise-reduction rating (NRR)--preferably in the range of 23 to 33.
35. Flashlight
* A flashlight is useful for more than emergency power outages. Select a freestanding swivel-head model for brightening dark work areas. Choose one with a built-in magnet to adhere to pipes, steel beams or the inside of an appliance that you are repairing. For truly rugged use, opt for an LED light with as high a drop-test rating as possible: Some industrial-quality flashlights are rated for falls as high as 25 feet.
36. Bow Rake
* Rugged and simple, the bow rake remains the best device for raking heavy material, such as gravel or tangled sticks. The bow acts as a shock absorber, protecting your arms while you work. If you turn it over, the straight back can also be used to level soil.
37. Volt/Ohmmeter
* This tool is far more versatile than its two-part name suggests. Aside from measuring voltage and resistance (ohms), it also measures current flow (amperage), and most modern versions emit a tone to signal a complete circuit (continuity).
38. Cold Chisel
* Use a cold chisel to chop through bolts, rivets and pins and to cut cold (as opposed to torch- or forge-heated) metal. Strike it with a ball-peen hammer, preferably one with a head 1/8 inch larger than the end of the chisel. You can get a better view of the tip by gripping the body with tongue-and-groove pliers. Always wear safety glasses when striking a cold chisel, and never use it on stone or concrete.
39. Ball-Peen Hammer
* The face of a ball-peen hammer strikes cold chisels and punches, while the dome-shaped end rolls over the edges of rivets (peening) or works curved sheet metal. The hammer ranges in size from 4 to 50 ounces (with large models serving as blacksmiths' hammers), but the 16-ounce size works well and fits in crowded toolboxes.
40. Multibit Screwdriver
* Because your screwdriver tip should match the head of whatever screw you're turning, a screwdriver with interchangeable tips is a compact, convenient alternative to a drawer full of tools. Plus, a handheld screwdriver often gets small jobs done faster than a cordless one.
41. Gooseneck Bar
* This is also called a wrecking bar--for good reason. A curved neck gives the steel tool incredible prying power, perfect for separating two pieces of lumber that are nailed together. Rely on small models up to 18 inches long for light-duty demolition, but graduate to a 36-inch bar for the big stuff.
42. Utility Knife
* A utility knife cuts drywall, slices string and duct tape and sharpens carpenter's pencils. What more utility could you want? Okay, better blade storage. But advanced designs have swing-out blade loading, as opposed to a cranky, hollow, two-piece body.
43. Pry Bar
* Shorter and flatter than a gooseneck bar, a pry bar is most useful for removing trim and paneling. Many variations exist, but the most versatile types have at least one nail-pulling slot (two is better).
44. Square-Nose Shovel
* The square-head design makes this shovel ideal for scooping debris and measuring material. When using it to place concrete, work the back of the blade against the inside surface of a slab form to consolidate concrete there. The long, flat blade is also handy for popping drywall off walls during demolition.
46. Tongue-and-Groove Pliers
* Howard Manning, chief engineer for the Champion DeArment Tool Company, invented tongue-and-groove pliers in 1933, improving on standard designs by adding length and leverage and increasing jaw width. The new tool caught on among car mechanics, who used it to repair water pumps. In 1953, the company's engineers redesigned the tongue and groove, undercutting the tongue to give the tool a firmer bite--a tweak that prevents it from slipping and busting your knuckles. They've made other improvements over the years, but the instantly recognizable grip color--probably the only hand-tool color ever trademarked--has remained the same. "Back in the early 1950s, all the plier manufacturers started putting colored PVC on their grips," says Bill DeArment, great-grandson of the company's founder. Crescent chose red; Stanley Tools, yellow. DeArment's father and uncle picked a beautiful sky blue that no one else had--and the company has used that color since 1956. In 1962, Champion changed its name to Channellock; DeArment is the president and CEO. And today, tongue-and-groove pliers are an essential for mechanics, farmers, plumbers and average joes everywhere.
45. Extension Ladder
* Ranging in length from 16 to 40 feet, extension ladders put most projects safely within reach. To ensure you don't buy a ladder that comes up short, buy one at least 7 feet longer than the height of the object you need to reach. When in doubt, check the manufacturer's label to compare the ladder's length to its actual reach.
47. Pick
* A pick is like a pipe wrench--not very versatile, but when you need it, nothing else works nearly as well. If you spend most of your time breaking up hard, rocky soil, get a railroad pick--the type with two pointed ends, or a narrow chisel tip on one side and a pick on the other. Although using a railroad pick to break soft and medium-hard rock has become a dying art, it can be done when the rock already has a crack into which you can drive the tip of the pick. The tool can also be used for chopping through asphalt, and it's effective at severing roots when equipped with a pick blade on one end and a mattock on the other.
48. Stepladder
* The safest way to reach things inside the house is with a properly sized step ladder. Although they range in height from 3 to 20 feet, the most useful ladders are those in the 6- to 10-foot range--tall enough for you to change light bulbs but not so large as to be unwieldy. If you need to gain height in an awkward location, such as on the stairs, a multiposition ladder solves the problem with hinged and telescoping legs that adapt to uneven footing.
49. Rope
* "Everything we do involves some type of tool," says Mark Roeber, a fifth-generation cattleman who runs a cow-calf operation in Paonia, Colo. "It's the lifeblood of how we get things done." Roeber reproduces and raises cattle on a ranch that has been in his family since 1889. But for six months of the year, his 400-odd head graze on 90,000 acres of federal land, 60 percent of which is roadless wilderness. So Roeber and his partners work on horseback, relying on one of the oldest and most versatile tools known to man: rope. Using both nylon and cotton ropes, Roeber lashes down packs, leads his horse and, when he's breaking in a new animal, rigs up a bitless bridle known as a bosal hackamore. He rides with a 35-foot lariat tied to the fork of his saddle. "Out on the range, that's how you catch livestock for doctoring or pull them out of bogs," Roeber says. When he rides off to repair fences, he loads a packhorse with a roll of wire fence, fence-mending tools and a folding pruning saw for clearing brush along the way. And he never parts with his folding knife: "I use it to get out of a wreck with a horse if I get caught up in the lead rope, for digging splinters out, sharpening a pencil, even writing on a tree to leave somebody a note."
50. Extension Cord
* Large jobs require corded tools--and an extension cord to match. The minimum spec for most DIYers should be a 14-gauge cord rated for 15 amps. But a 12-gauge cord is better, and a 10-gauge contractor-quality cord better still, because it ensures minimum voltage drop along its length.
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